GRIND

GRIND STREET GUIDE <br>『CULTURE SCOPE』 GRIND STREET GUIDE <br>『CULTURE SCOPE』

CULTURE, FASHION, INTERVIEW 2024.9.4

GRIND STREET GUIDE
『CULTURE SCOPE』

Vol.2 softs

Interview with Ryo Wagatsuma

Tokyo is a city where different cultures are born every day. This series of articles is a new cultural guide for people looking for inspiration to live creatively, showcasing places in Tokyo that are rooted in the city and have mastered their own unique styles.〈softs〉, a quirky clothing store quietly tucked away on the roof of a multi-tenant building in Kichijoji, has been offering a new way to connect with fashion with a genre-free lineup that focuses on authenticity since it opened in Tanashi in 2000. The 〈softs〉 style, which has been consistent for more than 20 years, reminds us that fashion has depth.

Photo_Haruki Matsui
Edit&Text_Fuka Yoshizawa

 A few minutes' walk from Kichijoji Station, 〈softs〉 is located on the fourth floor of a multi-tenant building lined with restaurants and massage parlors. From the outside, you would not even know that there is a clothing store there, and it has the appearance of a store known only to those in the know. The first thing that surprises you when you enter the store is the overwhelming amount of merchandise and the chaotic selection of what seems to be miscellaneous items. From hunting camouflage jackets to Buddhist monk's shoes to ethnic African batik clothing, there are many items that seem to be outside the context of so-called fashion. “The original purpose of these products was not to be fashionable, so many of them are excellent in performance and yet have interesting shapes. Professional items are the real thing that won't go out of style over the years," says store owner Ryo Wagatsuma, and in fact, many leading stylists and brand designers are drawn to Wagatsuma's manic selection and visit the store.

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 Typical apparel stores change their merchandise seasonally and keep the cycle going to maintain freshness. At 〈softs〉, however, items purchased several years ago are sold as part of an archive. “For example, products that arrive in March are cheaper in July. It is a waste that the best season for products is so short. I also want to see how my selections will be judged in five or ten years when people see them, so I do what I do with the feeling that I can beat the passage of time.” Because he does everything himself, he experiments with confidence in his own eyes. Because he does not focus on trends, he is able to propose items that transcend the time axis, sometimes cutting-edge, sometimes nostalgic. “Think of our products as condiments with a very strange taste," says Wagatsuma.〈softs〉 is filled to the brim with the store owner's love and passion, sprinkled with spices that will greatly expand the possibilities of fashion.

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    HARUTA's spock shoes, also known as doctor's shoes, are worn by Japanese monks. Although not widely available on the fashion scene, the wooden soles and simple, slim shape give a solid impression.

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    Wagatsuma says he plays a lot of Okinawan music these days. Among them, I recommend the Okinawan music vocal group NENES, whose mysterious tracks, a mix of Okinawan folk songs and world music, will draw you in.

 Wagatsuma's thoughts are also reflected in the background music at 〈softs〉. From jazz and techno to ethnic music from around the world and sometimes even Buddhist sutras, the space is filled daily with music from a variety of genres. He says, "I feel like there aren't enough places playing unpopular music these days. I feel that in-store background music that doesn't interfere with looking at clothes may be pleasant for the moment, but it doesn't leave anything behind. If that's the case, I think it's better to have interesting music playing, even if it's a little weird.” Do you know Bill Laswell, the music producer? He is said to be a man who mixes different genres of music into a single song and presents a musical connection that has never been seen before. Wagatsuma was so impressed by his music that he continues to look for ways to incorporate that feeling into his clothing. When you take in the information that most people see, you can feel comfortable and secure. However, a variety of unbalanced and unanswerable items taken out of their original context, such as those proposed by 〈softs〉, will stimulate your senses and lead you to further enjoyment of fashion.

Ryo Wagatsuma
After graduating from university, Ryo Wagatsuma worked at OOPS, then an outdoor select store in Seibu Shinjuku, before opening his own store, 〈softs〉, at the age of 25. He has developed his own original clothing as well as a cross-genre clothing selection. He also has a deep knowledge of music and regularly collects niche CDs found in used CD stores.

Information

softs

Yayoi Building 4F, 1-8-11 Kichijoji-Minami-cho, Musashino-shi, Tokyo
15:00 - 20:00 (Closed on Wednesdays)
@_softs

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